Indie Brand Pattern Review: ReinCARNATION Clothing's Dinah Bonnet
Hello all! This will actually be my first post to egl, and I hope to make it a good one! This post will be to review a pattern and kit by the ReinCARNATION Clothing pattern company for the "Dinah" bonnet, which will be available for purchase soon. I was given the opportunity to Beta-test this pattern, it's resource kit, and the instructions that went along with it, and all of my opinions expressed here are completely candid.
I took lots of pictures of my progress, and have written commentary about every step of the process, so the review is quite long. It can be read in it's entirety under the cut!
So, this pattern can be made in 3 different "views" and I made view A. I stuck pretty closely to the pattern (or as close as I could) so I would assume that any other person who sews at about my level or above will have just as good results if not better. I will warn you upfront that this pattern is NOT for the inexperienced seamstress: I have been sewing for almost 7 years on and off and my specialty is hand sewing, so this pattern was perfect for me. The pattern calls for a lot of tools and techniques that an inexperienced (or penniless) sewer might not have (including heavy needles, rotary cutters, no-seam fabric glues and a wire brush to name a few!), so in this review I will include the materials I used in substitution when applicable. Note: If you don't have a heavy sewing needle and a natural gift for using stiff materials, you WILL need to sew most of this by hand. While I found this relaxing, calming and fun, I realize it might not be for everyone.
The pattern came with a buckram form (pre-made by the brand's owner), the paper pattern pieces, a small informational pamphlet, and a sticker with the logo of the brand :) Most of the instructional information came in the form of an online tutorial and supplemental videos, though for the final version of this pattern, the instructions (edited and refined) should come along with the rest of the package.
After reading the instruction book and deciding on view A, I dove right in. The paper pattern pieces were very easy to understand, clearly marked with colors for each view (very helpful for a visual person like me!) and easy to cut. The paper itself was much sturdier than the tissue paper I am used to from patterns and I liked it quite a bit.
The first step was to smooth out the buckram form and make it easier to attach things to, for which you use felt or flannel in a similar color. Caught unprepared, the closest thing I had on hand was white fusible fleece interfacing, which is actually felt like in texture. I cut and marked the felt as directed. The directions called for using fabric glue and a steam iron to attach the felt to the form, and since my materials were already fusible, I was able to forgo the glue and iron them right on. I also then hand sewed along the edges to make sure it was really secure. In retrospect, using actual fabric glue and sticking closer to the directions when it comes to materials would've been better.
Then you are supposed to use a small wire brush to disguise the seam. I didn't have one of these, so I searched my home for something abrasive... And found an unused sponge. It took some delicacy and might not have been as effective, but I was able to use the sponge to rough-up the seam. I then used normal scissors to trim down the excess fuzz I had kicked up.
Next came the cutting out of fabric, which was very easy given the directions. I had 7 yards of this gorgeous blue-black shiny material that I was going to make into a crazy hime-style dress someday, so I thought using this opportunity to make a matching bonnet out of less than 1 yard would be too good to pass up. This section was the one time I was really using my sewing machine! It was very simple to put the pieces together using my machine and following the directions. At this point the tougher needle would have been necessary, so after pinning the fabric into place I decided to hand hand-sew it onto the form, which was now easily facilitated by the fleece/felt I had put on before.
For the inside part of the bonnet, there were 6 rows of ruffles called for. I had originally had only 2 yards of a too-wide pre-made ruffle (1.5in instead of 1in) so I had to go out and get more, but I chose to keep the size of the ruffle bigger than actually called for. I thought about making my own ruffles, but this fabric was very easily shredding at the edges and there was no included tutorial or instructions that didn't include a kind of finishing edge that my machine couldn't produce. In the end, I used an elastic two-tier tulle ruffle that I got at a local fabric store. I marked the lines the ruffles were to follow using a bar of white soap and then used my machine to sew them on, starting on the outside as to get a layered effect with the long, overlapping ruffles.
This was also, then, attached to the form by hand. At this point, I unfortunately don't have pictures of the process... but 1/2in double fold bias tape is called for to finish the edge of the bonnet. One of the video tutorials included in this pattern was how to make bias tape, but I didn't have the rotary cutter, cutting board, or bias folding ruler used to make it. I tried using alternate methods, but the fabric I used didn't want to stay pressed and my measurements and lines went all wonky. I soon gave up and went back to the fabric store for a pre-made bias tape, which ended up matching well enough color-wise (whew!) Note: I recommend taking this bias tape into account when choosing your fabric! If you don't think you can make the tape yourself, the closer you can get to the color and texture of fabric you are using with pre-made, the better -- so plan ahead!
Because the difference was visible, however, especially on the outside, I took this as a sign to embellish more on the design. From here on out, the stylistic choices are NOT directed by the pattern, though I do think they suit it. The first addition I made was to add an extra layer of ruffle on the outside so that it covered the bias tape along that edge and also peeked over the top of the brim. This was added by hand (which meant a lot of the work was done on my morning commute on public transit, sorry about the pics!)
I also needed a means of keeping the bonnet on my head of course, so I used a translucent black ribbon and hand sewed it to both corners where the crown meets the brim and a bit on the top of the arch.
I then covered the top of that ribbon with another layer of... you guessed it!-- ruffle! This was another similar elastic ruffle I had around that I felt better fit the shape and size of that part of the bonnet than the other stuff I'd been using. This was also sewed on by hand (on the subway.)
Lastly, this bonnet needed some flowers to adorn it! I had picked out some home decor flowers from Joanns crafts, so I deconstructed them and planned out where to put them. It took a while to figure out the layout I wanted to use, but then it was just a matter of pinning them in place and sewing the leaves and flowers down. Note: this was actually the hardest part of making this bonnet! It was hard to find good, sturdy points on the plants that could also hide a stitch to hold it down. If I were to do this over again, I would carefully use some strong adhering fabric glue and only sew in a few places to reinforce the hold.
Finally, here is the finished product! Forgive my lack of makeup and sleepy expressions in the photos, but having it posed on a wig head didn't give a very good sense of the actual proportion of the piece. As you can see, I ended up using two flowers and two leaf-stems all on the same side of the bonnet. The other side is left with just the ruffles and ribbon.
Ultimately, I am really happy with the finished product and the process of making it! I think it turned out a bit heavier than I had anticipated and I plan on adding some combs to the inside where it actually sits on my head (yay, more hand-sewing!) so that it will be more secure before I wear it outside.
From start to finish, working with Twila of ReinCARNATION was a pleasure, and it's clear that she really knows how to make an accessory. I am proud that my amateur results come as close as they do to looking like her example, and I owe that result a lot to her careful instructions and well made kit. I would definitely buy patterns from ReinCARNATION in the future, and would even buy another buckram form from them to use the Dinah pattern in another view if I could! (view B in particular has cool shirring on the inside and looks really cute!) I recommend this company and product very much and really can't speak to how happy I am with the final results. If you're like me and enjoy hand-crafting beautiful lolita accessories, this is definitely a good project for you!
To see more about this company, please support them on facebook and keep an eye out for when these kits go on sale! Thanks for reading and I'd love to hear what you think about the finished bonnet!
I took lots of pictures of my progress, and have written commentary about every step of the process, so the review is quite long. It can be read in it's entirety under the cut!
So, this pattern can be made in 3 different "views" and I made view A. I stuck pretty closely to the pattern (or as close as I could) so I would assume that any other person who sews at about my level or above will have just as good results if not better. I will warn you upfront that this pattern is NOT for the inexperienced seamstress: I have been sewing for almost 7 years on and off and my specialty is hand sewing, so this pattern was perfect for me. The pattern calls for a lot of tools and techniques that an inexperienced (or penniless) sewer might not have (including heavy needles, rotary cutters, no-seam fabric glues and a wire brush to name a few!), so in this review I will include the materials I used in substitution when applicable. Note: If you don't have a heavy sewing needle and a natural gift for using stiff materials, you WILL need to sew most of this by hand. While I found this relaxing, calming and fun, I realize it might not be for everyone.
The pattern came with a buckram form (pre-made by the brand's owner), the paper pattern pieces, a small informational pamphlet, and a sticker with the logo of the brand :) Most of the instructional information came in the form of an online tutorial and supplemental videos, though for the final version of this pattern, the instructions (edited and refined) should come along with the rest of the package.
After reading the instruction book and deciding on view A, I dove right in. The paper pattern pieces were very easy to understand, clearly marked with colors for each view (very helpful for a visual person like me!) and easy to cut. The paper itself was much sturdier than the tissue paper I am used to from patterns and I liked it quite a bit.
The first step was to smooth out the buckram form and make it easier to attach things to, for which you use felt or flannel in a similar color. Caught unprepared, the closest thing I had on hand was white fusible fleece interfacing, which is actually felt like in texture. I cut and marked the felt as directed. The directions called for using fabric glue and a steam iron to attach the felt to the form, and since my materials were already fusible, I was able to forgo the glue and iron them right on. I also then hand sewed along the edges to make sure it was really secure. In retrospect, using actual fabric glue and sticking closer to the directions when it comes to materials would've been better.
Then you are supposed to use a small wire brush to disguise the seam. I didn't have one of these, so I searched my home for something abrasive... And found an unused sponge. It took some delicacy and might not have been as effective, but I was able to use the sponge to rough-up the seam. I then used normal scissors to trim down the excess fuzz I had kicked up.
Next came the cutting out of fabric, which was very easy given the directions. I had 7 yards of this gorgeous blue-black shiny material that I was going to make into a crazy hime-style dress someday, so I thought using this opportunity to make a matching bonnet out of less than 1 yard would be too good to pass up. This section was the one time I was really using my sewing machine! It was very simple to put the pieces together using my machine and following the directions. At this point the tougher needle would have been necessary, so after pinning the fabric into place I decided to hand hand-sew it onto the form, which was now easily facilitated by the fleece/felt I had put on before.
For the inside part of the bonnet, there were 6 rows of ruffles called for. I had originally had only 2 yards of a too-wide pre-made ruffle (1.5in instead of 1in) so I had to go out and get more, but I chose to keep the size of the ruffle bigger than actually called for. I thought about making my own ruffles, but this fabric was very easily shredding at the edges and there was no included tutorial or instructions that didn't include a kind of finishing edge that my machine couldn't produce. In the end, I used an elastic two-tier tulle ruffle that I got at a local fabric store. I marked the lines the ruffles were to follow using a bar of white soap and then used my machine to sew them on, starting on the outside as to get a layered effect with the long, overlapping ruffles.
This was also, then, attached to the form by hand. At this point, I unfortunately don't have pictures of the process... but 1/2in double fold bias tape is called for to finish the edge of the bonnet. One of the video tutorials included in this pattern was how to make bias tape, but I didn't have the rotary cutter, cutting board, or bias folding ruler used to make it. I tried using alternate methods, but the fabric I used didn't want to stay pressed and my measurements and lines went all wonky. I soon gave up and went back to the fabric store for a pre-made bias tape, which ended up matching well enough color-wise (whew!) Note: I recommend taking this bias tape into account when choosing your fabric! If you don't think you can make the tape yourself, the closer you can get to the color and texture of fabric you are using with pre-made, the better -- so plan ahead!
Because the difference was visible, however, especially on the outside, I took this as a sign to embellish more on the design. From here on out, the stylistic choices are NOT directed by the pattern, though I do think they suit it. The first addition I made was to add an extra layer of ruffle on the outside so that it covered the bias tape along that edge and also peeked over the top of the brim. This was added by hand (which meant a lot of the work was done on my morning commute on public transit, sorry about the pics!)
I also needed a means of keeping the bonnet on my head of course, so I used a translucent black ribbon and hand sewed it to both corners where the crown meets the brim and a bit on the top of the arch.
I then covered the top of that ribbon with another layer of... you guessed it!-- ruffle! This was another similar elastic ruffle I had around that I felt better fit the shape and size of that part of the bonnet than the other stuff I'd been using. This was also sewed on by hand (on the subway.)
Lastly, this bonnet needed some flowers to adorn it! I had picked out some home decor flowers from Joanns crafts, so I deconstructed them and planned out where to put them. It took a while to figure out the layout I wanted to use, but then it was just a matter of pinning them in place and sewing the leaves and flowers down. Note: this was actually the hardest part of making this bonnet! It was hard to find good, sturdy points on the plants that could also hide a stitch to hold it down. If I were to do this over again, I would carefully use some strong adhering fabric glue and only sew in a few places to reinforce the hold.
Finally, here is the finished product! Forgive my lack of makeup and sleepy expressions in the photos, but having it posed on a wig head didn't give a very good sense of the actual proportion of the piece. As you can see, I ended up using two flowers and two leaf-stems all on the same side of the bonnet. The other side is left with just the ruffles and ribbon.
Ultimately, I am really happy with the finished product and the process of making it! I think it turned out a bit heavier than I had anticipated and I plan on adding some combs to the inside where it actually sits on my head (yay, more hand-sewing!) so that it will be more secure before I wear it outside.
From start to finish, working with Twila of ReinCARNATION was a pleasure, and it's clear that she really knows how to make an accessory. I am proud that my amateur results come as close as they do to looking like her example, and I owe that result a lot to her careful instructions and well made kit. I would definitely buy patterns from ReinCARNATION in the future, and would even buy another buckram form from them to use the Dinah pattern in another view if I could! (view B in particular has cool shirring on the inside and looks really cute!) I recommend this company and product very much and really can't speak to how happy I am with the final results. If you're like me and enjoy hand-crafting beautiful lolita accessories, this is definitely a good project for you!
To see more about this company, please support them on facebook and keep an eye out for when these kits go on sale! Thanks for reading and I'd love to hear what you think about the finished bonnet!