This was heavily inspired by children's clothing of the ealry 1870s, and also by a costume buddy who did a (historically accurate) 1870s girl's dress that was just too damn cute. Here's a breakdown of how it goes from the inside out.
Bustle and Petticoat
Drafted the bustle pattern myself, it's very simple: a few trapezoid shaped panels, dart at center back, waistband, and 3 hoop wire bones pulled into a U shape with ribbon. The petticoat is loosely based off of th Truly Victorian 1870s underskirt pattern: 5 gores, pleaded back, and extra back length to go over a bustle. And, of course, ruffles!
Also based on the TV underskirt, with box-pleated trim, Venice lace, and a nifty little pepelum thing (semi-circle with two inverse box pleated so it flares out. This silk is one of my favorite fabric finds, and evidence of why I LOVE going to the home dec warehouse. It's a pintucked silk Dupioni, puprle shot teal. There were seven yards in the remnant bin, and it was also further marked down due to defects (which I have yet to find). This is why the home dec warehouse is great: they put bigger yardagaes in the rementant bin. Needless to say, I snatched up all of this, and had a ton of leftovers that I used for an 18th century corset, Regency stays, and I still have a good amount left in my stash. At least enough for a few pillows.
Finishing touches: bodice and headdress
I did the skirt and bodice seperately. This is how they did it back then, and it also gives me more options for coordinating or dressing up/down as needed. I drafted the pattern myself using what I've learned from the Victorian tailoring methods I learned from using so many TV patterns for so long. It's got double front darts, very narrow back princess seam, and slightly dropped shoulders. The headdress is really simple: circle, leftover lace, and a bias cut trailing ribbon thing. It looks weird because I had to use a flash, but you can see more of the purple crossgrain here.
And, Finally, some eye candy: