seeinglife ([info]seeinglife) wrote in [info]egl,

What is loli?

This is based on a comment in this post.

I am trying to describe loli.
Sweet, gothic, and punk lolita, but not "kodona," aristocrat, or any of the other styles you might see in a GLB. Just loli.
To a point where it's defined.
In about seven terms/phrases.
In a way that all or nearly all of us could agree on.
Talk about a Herculean task ~_^

What follows is what I've come up with so far.

Lolita fashion is :

  • Cute. Even the most gothic or deconstructed lolita maintains that cuteness.
  • Youthful. This could be tied into the cute factor, since cute is generally applied to more young/youthful people and things? This can especially be seen in the number of outfits that incorporate elements seen in school uniforms like schoolgirlish plaids, sailor collars, etc. Even the most mature lolita styles seem to retain the feel of youth. Youth, however, does NOT necessarily translate into very-young-girl-style. Compare Angelic Pretty to Mary Magdalene or BabySSB to Victorian Maiden.
  • Feminine. It's pretty self explanatory to me. But examples can be the emphasis on curved lines, soft fabrics, and typically feminine motifs such as hearts, flowers/floral prints, and butterflies. Punk lolita has the least of this element, but I think it's still there. I think the line between "just punk" and "punk loli" can be seen partially in whether or not strong feminine elements have been incorporated.
  • Detailed. This does NOT necessarily mean all loli is frilly or elaborate. There seem to always be little details in lolita clothing that make the outfit, be it pintucks, matching laces, embroidery, ruffles, shirring, richly textured fabric, unusual collar or skirt shapes... I could go on and on. But little or nothing is ever left plain. Some exceptions to the plainness are certain pieces from brands like Atelier Boz or Moi Meme Moitie, but one could argue that the details there are the very crisp, very clean lines of the garments, the very "rich" fabrics and trims.
  • Deliberate. In lolita done right* all the elements are carefully matched to each other, the outfit is planned; even the punky side of lolita looks like you deliberately and carefully matched pieces cobbled together from a war zone. ^^ Lots of lolitas have mix and match style wardrobes, *but* the empasis is on the "match" part of that. There is often careful attention to the lines of the outfit, the flow of colors and patterns, etc.
  • Not overtly sexual. There is a sensuality and flirtatiousness in this fashion, and occasionally innuendo, but I think most would agree that the traditional style/clothing itself is not overtly sexual. The only time I have seen overt sexuality described as part of lolita fashion is -here-, in the description of "erololi." This is the only time I've seen the term erololi. The community seems split between people who feel overt sexuality has no place in the fashion and don't seem to consider erololi part of their view of the lolita world, and people who feel that excluding all clothing that could be said to be sexualized constitutes elitism and excessive purism. The people WEARING the fashions may be utterly chaste and modest or extremely sexual, however.

    Tentatively, I've also now got :

  • from another time. Sweet or goth loli to me always looks somewhat antiquated, even the casual styles (1950s, often, on the casual ones?), and punk loli looks post-apocalyptic to me. Lolita is completely apart of mainstream modern fashion, and often involves taking historically based clothing and putting a bit of a new spin on it. Most commonly given as an example is Victorian (1800s Euroamerican) fashion, but also seen are 50s styles (esp w/ certain brands), Georgian (1700s) clothing (Antique Beast makes the best examples), traditional Japanese clothing (wa-loli), etc. Any trends lolitas tend to follow are those within the fashion itself, not current mainstream ones.
    I think this sense of antiquation is why materials like PVC and polyester, and very bright/neon colors in general are not considered traditional sweet or gothic lolita-- these are modern synthetics and modern color palettes. Very bright colors were simply not used in antiqutity. PVC can work for punked out styles, but often these styles are on the borderline of just (Japanese) punk and not lolita at all. PVC also is considered by some to not work so well because it's considered rather fetishy and inherently sexual. Some Western hybrids of lolita exist that do involve these (let's call them "cyber doll" and "lolita decora") but they are moving away from many of the other mentioned elements of lolita, almost to the point where they can be considered a breakaway fashion. Time will tell about that. I forsee the bright loud prints associated with decora (the colorful random fashion associated with classic FRUiTS streetwear) staying more "acceptable" due to brands like Metamorphose that sometimes use pretty funky prints already.

  • doll-like. I think that impression is created because a lot of those things that describe/define lolita also describe/define the traditional clothing of porcelain dolls. I think there is a progression in the doll-like quality through the different styles of lolita. Sweet lolita is like a straight up doll outfit. Gothic lolita is taking that straight up doll outfit and turning it, well, gothic. It's still doll like, but also "dark" and not like any doll made by a mainstream porcelain doll maker. I usually get "doll like and yet not" from gl. Punk lolita is taking that gothic doll and making the look worn, distressed, tattered, and edgy. Punk lolita will probably look like it was a doll at one point, but it's been through some realllly rough times. Not so innocent or "fragile," and sometimes not doll like at all when compared to sweet lolita.


    * = re. "loli done right," I am not one to say that there is one right way, or even a dozen right ways, to "do loli" or much of anything else, but I think that most of us can safely agree that there are wrong ways. And I think that even the "loliest of the loli" and the "purists" and "elitists" know they've done it the wrong way at least once, especially when they were first starting out. So no shame in not getting it quite right your first or sixth time trying it... as evidenced by our Loli Bloopers archive in the memories. Shame on unconstructive criticism and rudeness, though.



    Thoughts? Criticisms? Additions? Discuss.

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    [info]ex_pantheria458

    November 17 2004, 21:53:37 UTC 7 years ago

    Excellent... :)

    [info]loli_cat

    November 17 2004, 21:58:34 UTC 7 years ago

    This is looking to be something that Kats should put in the the FAQs area! Good job! ^_^

    [info]ashna

    November 17 2004, 21:59:29 UTC 7 years ago

    I like your definition. Specially on the sexual bit.

    Though maybe change the feminine bit? I don't think All of the guys who dress in it like to look feminine.

    [info]ashna

    November 17 2004, 22:19:32 UTC 7 years ago

    oops. Didn't see the 'not describing the aristocratic etc bits'

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]ashna

    7 years ago

    [info]raiko42

    November 17 2004, 22:05:39 UTC 7 years ago

    I think that's a good overview of loli style. Sounds like something you would put on a mission statement or something. :P

    [info]girlgoth

    November 17 2004, 22:06:17 UTC 7 years ago

    I like it a lot! I definitely think it would be good as a FAQ.

    [info]k00kaburra

    November 17 2004, 22:25:54 UTC 7 years ago

    Excellent! You nailed it!

    [info]hereford_wins

    November 17 2004, 22:32:39 UTC 7 years ago

    yeah the done right thing, i think can be said about many look as well. if you can coordinate an outfit to look marvelous, thats doing something right. (mm maybe not "right" in some fashion guidelines, but in judgement or something, im not quite sure which i mean). if it looks sloppy and thrown together or random, than sometimes things look odd.

    [info]seeinglife

    November 17 2004, 23:33:06 UTC 7 years ago

    Well, some fashions seem to be based on randomness and discord and odd color combinations (FRUiTS anyone? haha). And modern casual dress... it's pick a random tshirt and a random pair of jeans/pants and I guess they sorta match or close enough, really. Not a deliberately assembled and matched outfit. That's why I felt the need to mention that as an aspect of loli.

    [info]ex_pantheria458

    November 17 2004, 22:32:43 UTC 7 years ago

    Ohhh one thought though, maybe Lolita by itself should not be used, maybe something like GothLoli or Gosurori or even Gothic & Lolita but not Lolita on it's own simply because it's hard to take the preconceptions out from that word unfortunately! :)

    [info]seeinglife

    November 17 2004, 23:31:01 UTC 7 years ago

    Well, this is geared towards people who've already heard of loli as a fashion separate from the book term and its sexual connotations, but haven't put their finger on it yet. I'll probably edit it to say "lolita fashion is."

    [info]mugimugipop

    November 17 2004, 22:43:42 UTC 7 years ago

    awesome! <3

    [info]_tchu

    November 17 2004, 22:46:03 UTC 7 years ago

    Mwah. <3

    But there's something I wonder: is there any specific or even, restrict make-up to the Lolita fashion style?

    [info]xelyna

    November 17 2004, 23:00:09 UTC 7 years ago

    Yeah, in the bibles and hair and make-up books you see a certain style of make-up that doesn't change much. But it's designed for Japanese faces, so it doesn't directly apply to most Westerners.

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]seaofrain

    7 years ago

    [info]ambivalent_amy

    November 17 2004, 22:48:03 UTC 7 years ago

    Ooo! I think there should be a site like lolita snap where people can upload their disastrous loli outfits from when they began and now look back at and be embarrassed. That would be fun. I know I've got a few.

    [info]seeinglife

    November 18 2004, 13:09:55 UTC 7 years ago

    As soon as I find my old pix I'll make a post just for loli disasters. XD

    [info]xelyna

    November 17 2004, 23:04:24 UTC 7 years ago

    I think that the "antiquated" point is a pretty important one- gothic lolita never follows current fashion trends. It's a style completely unto itself. It is based on historial patterns, and therefore hasn't been "in fashion" for 100 years or more. If you look at old pattern books, you will see little girls dresses that look just like gosurori ones. And women's dresses that if shorter would look the same too.

    [info]seeinglife

    November 17 2004, 23:25:49 UTC 7 years ago

    Well, I think it does follow some current trends... but trends within the fashion, not outside fashion. Eg, I hear that over in Japan bxw is considered a bit old, and prints and plaids are in?

    [info]aitreni

    7 years ago

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]raino

    7 years ago

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]raino

    7 years ago

    [info]raino

    7 years ago

    [info]kurobara_natsu

    November 17 2004, 23:07:50 UTC 7 years ago

    agreed.
    But I think that (at least for most of the gothic&lolita substyles) "Doll-like" often describes it best (I'm mainly thinking of style like Btssb, innocent world etc).I cannot clearly put it into words, but when I look at the Bibles most of the pictures /poses definately have something unreal.. doll-like to it.
    Maybe it's just me, but when I hear the term Gothic & Lolita
    I automaticly think of this doll-like aura (no matter what style really)

    [info]seeinglife

    November 17 2004, 23:22:09 UTC 7 years ago

    Hmmm. This is true. I think it's created because a lot of those things that describe/define lolita also describe/define the traditional clothing of porcelain dolls. I think there is a progression in the doll-like quality through the different styles of lolita. Sweet lolita is like a straight up doll outfit. Gothic lolita is taking that straight up doll outfit and turning it, well, gothic. It's still doll like, but also "dark" and not like any doll made by a mainstream porcelain doll maker. I usually get "doll like and yet not" from gl. Punk lolita is taking that gothic doll and making the look worn, distressed, tattered, and edgy. Punk lolita will probably look like it was a doll at one point, but it's been through some reallly rough times. Not so innocent or "fragile," and sometimes not doll like at all when compared to sweet lolita.

    [info]yokanshinya

    November 17 2004, 23:22:11 UTC 7 years ago

    Wow! Well done! *applauds* Great job of putting it all into words.
    Thnak you for doing that, it makes it easier to describe to people after reading that!
    <33333

    [info]chuppie

    November 17 2004, 23:23:30 UTC 7 years ago

    If you need terrible pictures of terrible outfits I volunteer the first thing I sewed. I wore it these terrible think blackxwhite stripey tights. I looked like some prositute french maid. ^_-

    [info]seeinglife

    November 17 2004, 23:29:20 UTC 7 years ago

    Well, let's put it this way... I used to be way into square dancey stuff and also had that "lolita means lace!" phase. I wore a regular black skirt with black lace, a semi babydoll top with cream lacy trim, a strip of fabric with lace on it on my head, black tights, and clompy maryjanes. Oh the uncoordinated unloli horror.

    Maybe I'll have to make a "terrible loli" post sometime soon, this could be both amusing and instructive. "Learn from our mistakes, please!" XD


    I think a lot of "bad loli" actually has a lot more to do with beginner sewing than anything. It takes a while of sewing to realize what makes a quality garment and what looks good. I'd know. >_

    [info]chuppie

    7 years ago

    [info]lady_vader

    7 years ago

    [info]aitreni

    7 years ago

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]jola

    November 18 2004, 02:25:48 UTC 7 years ago

    wow, very well put. And if anybody starts a "loli done badly" site i'll have one or two pictures to contribute! ;p

    [info]___miyako

    November 18 2004, 02:38:16 UTC 7 years ago

    but isn't Lolita like any fashion...and a means of expression? I know your examples aren't THAT strict, but I'm sure EGL has room to grow and change into different styles and ideas while still keeping the doll-like roots...or would that be too far away from tradition to be considered Lolita?

    And I always thought that aristocrat was a LOT more "gothic" and mature and I never found any innoncent features in it, maybe I'm not looking hard enough?

    *shrugs* ^ ^;

    [info]seeinglife

    November 18 2004, 10:30:25 UTC 7 years ago

    Yep, it's like any fashion... it can grow and change but there IS a point where it's not lolita anymore. If you go to the link of the post where this whole thing started, you'll see the underlying motivation is something like this : figure out amongst ourselves what we can agree lolita IS so we can more comfortably and objectively determine a spot where your own spin on lolita stops and being another style altogether that's inspired by lolita begins.

    Aristocrat is a lot more gothic and mature and not really innocent. But it's not included in what I'm talking about here. This is strictly about lolita. Aristocrat, neogoth, "kodona" etc are related fashions, but they're a whole 'nother can of worms.

    [info]___miyako

    7 years ago

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]___miyako

    7 years ago

    [info]seaofrain

    November 18 2004, 08:02:18 UTC 7 years ago

    I've always thought PVC worked really well with the gothic lolita look. It's fetish but it is also terribly gothic. The key lies in what you mentioned already, the details. It usually looks quite well if the pvc is included in small details such as thin trims on the corset, neck corset and gloves.
    also..well this is kind of off topic but I am puzzled by the term fruitsy lolita because fruits is essentially a magazine that shows an array of styles and I don't think they can be so neatly defined under the term "fruits". It's the same idea with Kera magazine. It also shows a wide range of style but I don't think there is a prevalent theme or a general characteristic within the magazine to call it "kera".

    [info]seeinglife

    November 18 2004, 10:31:47 UTC 7 years ago

    I think the more proper term might be "decora," but it seems most Western people refer to that and fashions like it (loud, colorful, random, a zillion layers and or accessories) as just FRUiTS style.

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]raino

    November 18 2004, 09:51:46 UTC 7 years ago

    "I forsee the bright loud prints associated with FRUiTS staying more "acceptable" due to brands like Metamorphose that sometimes use pretty funky prints."

    I think Metamorphoses prints follow the trend of "sweets" also often seen at Emily Temple Cute and Jane Marple. That's something I'd call retro-loli, which has a fifties-early sixties feel, and often colourful prints like dots, or candies, or other cute edible manmade things (strawberry and cherry prints are another trend).

    [info]seeinglife

    November 18 2004, 13:06:42 UTC 7 years ago

    Hm. Good point. They do always seem to be mostly things like yummy edibles or cutesey youthful things. Maybe that's why they seem to be more "acceptable" as opposed to other bright colored fabrics or prints.

    [info]raino

    7 years ago

    [info]jolie_laide

    November 18 2004, 15:33:40 UTC 7 years ago

    It's a common misconception that the term "FRUiTS" relates to color or colorful items in some way. FRUiTS isn't so much a style as it is merely a documentary of Japanese street fashion. Aoki has featured G&L looks in the books & magazines before but the current styles are a bit too brand-focused to be featured in the magazines. Occasionally, you will see "looks" from Jane Marple, Miho Matsuda, and Emily/Shirley Temple but it's mainly because they have appear more ubiquitous than the usual G&L brands/looks.

    [info]seeinglife

    November 18 2004, 15:39:18 UTC 7 years ago

    I'm just using the term because due to that common misconception most people will "get" what I mean. I've heard the term decora before... is that more like that colorful random style I'm trying to get at?

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]absinthecity

    December 17 2004, 12:28:38 UTC 7 years ago

    FAOSeeinglife>

    I'd really like to take some of your descriptions as material for the article I'm writing on gothic lolita in Alt.Wear magazine. Would you be ok with that? I may lift some of it directly as you write well. I you want a credit, do let me have your name!

    [info]seeinglife

    December 17 2004, 12:34:37 UTC 7 years ago

    Re: FAOSeeinglife>

    Sure, you can use it. Just say it's based on something written up by Christine Callaghan/seeinglife on LJ.

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]seeinglife

    7 years ago

    [info]absinthecity

    December 17 2004, 13:47:12 UTC 7 years ago

    Re: FAOSeeinglife>

    I'll send you a freebie. It's ?4.95, so about $8 or something usually - we send it out to a lot of retailers and also at fashion events and shows.

    [info]seeinglife

    December 17 2004, 13:58:40 UTC 7 years ago

    Re: FAOSeeinglife>

    Oh, okay. I'll email you my address then, or you can email me and I'll send it to you - cagedflame%@%cagedflame%.%net (remove %)

    [info]katabulous

    December 18 2004, 04:31:20 UTC 7 years ago

    I know this is an old post, and don't chew me out for this, but I'd like to mention this.

    I find lolita to be not so much "not overtly sexual" but moreover as "sexual without being overtly sexual." I know it sounds like I'm splitting hairs, but I think it makes a difference. Gothic Lolita is chock full of sexual innuendos. It is the innocent flirtation with the thought of something darker lingering underneath. Lolita is obviously taken from the namesake of the book. By definition, a lolita is "A seductive adolescent girl." With that in mind, I think there is a certain seduction that comes along with that.

    There was a really good paper that I read that talked about gothic lolita and sexuality and the whole rebellion of it, but I can't find it. ;(

    [info]seeinglife

    December 21 2004, 11:14:11 UTC 7 years ago

    Damn email box sending LJ comments into spam, even with a filter for specifically sending LJ comments to the normal mail folder!

    The non-overt-sexuality thing is a point that I think has tended to morph slightly as it has travelled over to the West from Japan. I need to find the post where [info]aitreni said it, but as she said, of course there's a sexual element to it back in Japan, where the only way to be sexy is to be young and innocent. In Western eyes, I think it's too far out of the lines of "normal" fashion to be considered something ripe for overt sexualization (like say, schoolgirl outfits), and that many Western lolis like it because in our cultural environment it's sexually neutral, and is only sexual if they want it to be by their actions. They can take it and pile on the flirtatious innuendo, or they can take it and go overboard with its "super kawaii!!!one"-ness. Some people are really stringent and insist that no hint of sexuality should *ever* enter the outfit or the attitude of the wearer. Others take the attitude of "Um, hi, this is a fashion, not a religion, I can drink and smoke and talk dirty in lolita if I damn well please!"

    [info]lilitheve

    January 21 2005, 07:06:34 UTC 7 years ago

    I think this might be part of the sexual or not arguement. It may or may not be directly related, but I have found that in the western world thigh highs seem to have a sexual connotation. Even if they are cotton socks as opposed to fishnets, however these are regularly seen and acceptable items in the eastern world, and therefore are not considered in any way overtly sexual.

    Also, just becuase I want to add this, the G&L Bibles represent 2 completely different styles that have a crossover area. All things in the bibles are not loli, and i'm not sure when they are still newbies, that a lot of people pick up on that.

    agree?

    [info]pillow_stealer

    January 21 2005, 16:58:29 UTC 7 years ago

    i enjoy your what is loli surprisingly as well, no offense. though im not much for you're constant nag of what is lolita and not, i can admit when someone has done a good job, your definition seems solid, i also enjoy how you said how lolita can be done dozens of ways, which i strongly stand by. and shame on rudeness, completely agreed. espiecially about the sexual comments about the fashion.i actually do view it though as a cutesy fashion, next a sex kitten kind of cutesy thing.

    nice job ^^
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